We're back in business!
If you have been waiting for a starter and haven't heard from Russ,
please call him at (402)640-0865
as he has lost some contact information. Thank you.



Russ recommends you use this starter and modify it as shown below (click images for full size):



COVER TERMINAL WITH SILICONE and check for clearance at green tape spots.



Right Side Starters will no longer be supplied with a starter motor. The price has been adjusted and you will need to find a used or new 1981 up sportster starter motor and modify it to fit. Before you modify it be sure it fits the housing and THE SMALL GEAR IS ALWAYS ENGAGED WITH THE DRIVEN GEAR!!


The photo shows the bottom side--the side that must fit up to your ratchet or jock top and #1 is the trigger terminal, originally a big plastic shroud that must be removed and the terminal reinsulated with silicone after test fit--you may have to straighten and carefully rebend the terminal. An option is to drill a hole in the back cover and solder a wire internally. SORRY--I LOST MY SUPPLY OF GOOD MOTORS!


#2 and #3 are simply aluminum ground away with an abrasive disc so these spots have clearance.


NOT SHOWN on opposite side of starter is an obvious spot that may interfere with the oil tank bottom on rigid apps.


THE NEW PRICE FOR THE STARTER HOUSING ASSEMBLY WITHOUT THE MOTOR IS $995; no other prices have changed--if you can find a good used motor you may actually save some money compared to the prior format.


As stated in the instructions the motor must always be engaged with the driven gear-Check this first!!!


Click here to see a larger version of this image.

The "Right Side" Electric Starter

For the Four-Speed Big Twin Gearbox in Rigid or Swingarm Frames

A machinist by trade, I built the first RIGHT SIDE ELECTRIC STARTER several years ago to help a friend. The machined aluminum gear housing replaces the kicker cover on jockey or ratchet top four speeds built until 1979.

Utilizing a late style xl starter motor and via gear and chain reduction, torque is applied to a stem gear meshed with the oem 16 tooth kick starter gear. The starter motor 9 tooth gear is always engaged for quiet operation and longevity. The RSES drive train is disengaged at the oem starter clutch via proprietary parts. A PATENT IS PENDING.

An electric start oil tank and 12-volt battery are required. NOTE-- One may retain the 6 volt electrical system if willing to relocate the H2 battery to a saddlebag or sidecar. Of course, one must install a maintenence-free softail-sized battery in the oil tank to start the bike. The starting battery charge is maintained daily via an external battery charger. The panhead illustrated to the right starts on 12 volts and runs on 6 volts!

The $995 price does not include the starting motor. Our oil tank kits sell for $300, and are available with oem style flare fittings.

See the Product page for more information.



Update from Russ:

When you watch the video below, keep in mind this is NEW technology for OLD iron and that it is imperative to inform the vintage riders-- so they stop selling or parking their machines when they are unable to kick!

Understand my starter does NOT CHANGE YOUR PRIMARY SIDE AT ALL. That is new!!

Money back guaranteed and have had zero returns; 100 units built and counting. Keeping greybeards, accident victims, wounded vets and others on their vintage 4 speed iron since 2006.


Thanks again, Russ Peterson




If you cannot see the above video, click here.



NEW PRODUCTS: All Cast Unit and Rocker Pedal Cable Adapter Kit!

Machined from 2 castings. Rocker Pedal Cable Adapter Kit. $100.
See the New Products page for more information.




All content © Russ Peterson